Saturday, March 13, 2010

Sekkiz Mart (March 8)

March 8th is International Women’s Day in Azerbaijan. This holiday is celebrated every year, and is designed to honour women. I have heard it compared to Mother’s Day (or Mothering Sunday). But I think that is an unfair comparison because March 8th doesn’t pertain only to the women who have had children. It is day that celebrates all women: daughters, sisters, teachers, shopkeepers. It also means a day off school.

I was out of the village on March 8th visiting another volunteer in a nearby town, so I wasn’t expecting anything special to happen. An ordinary Monday. Unique only because I would have internet access instead of 5 hours of class.

It was an ordinary day. But everywhere I went I was greeted with smiles and congratulated about the holiday. There were a couple random acts and little gestures of kindness that made me feel warm and fuzzy on the inside.

All the teenage boys at the internet cafÈ acknowledged my presence and congratulated me. (They usually ignore me.) The owner of the Internet cafÈ charged me half price for my hour of cyberspace. Then I went to the store to pick up a few things. The store-owner gave me some tissues free of charge. On my home, the bus driver announced that he planned to stop at my village before I even had a chance to ask. Then as I was walking home, the barber (of previous blog post fame) rode his bicycle to catch-up with me and presented me with a flower. At school later in the week, I was given small gifts by a few of my students.

Needless to say, I heartily approve of this holiday. We SHOULD celebrate the fact that we are women (and be celebrated)!

Monday, March 8, 2010

Spring Cleaning: Azerbaijan

Saturday was the first real spring-like day of weather we’ve had in the village. Therefore, my host sister decided it was time to get a head start on the spring cleaning that traditionally accompanies the Azerbaijani Spring Holiday. Although the spring holiday is still a little over two weeks away, the weather was so lovely that I couldn’t argue with her.

So we laid tarps in the courtyard, and proceeded to carry all the pillows and duvets outside. I am the taller of the two of us, so it was my job to jump up and fling the duvets over the clothesline. I feel that fling is the most appropriate word to describe my actions as they were exactly lady-like. Oops. The courtyard resembles a pillow garden. The mattresses look a lot softer than the one I am sleeping on. I might look into that…

Currently, my host sister is in the next room, wiping down the china. Her sister has come from the village next door to help with this particular chore. I have been told my services are no longer required. Which is probably a good thing. I don’t do well with breakable things.

On a Cultural Exchange Note: As she was mopping, my host sister did start dancing – mop in hand - to the music from my iPod. And a parade of relatives has come into the room marveling at my laptop.

Good Enough To Eat

One of the hazards of living with little ones is the teething process. This is particularly hazardous when the older, more ambulant of the pair has decided that he likes the taste of the American more than anything or anyone else in the house.

Therefore, I have spent the last six weeks dodging the dental attentions of the two year old, who has the habit of running at me full-speed the minute I walk through the door. So coming home from school, involves an ungraceful running leap towards my bed on the opposite side of the room. Still, I have teeth marks on both my hands and one of my ankles.

Obviously, I need to learn to run faster. Or levitate.

But I have to admit there was a very amusing incident earlier in the week that is too comical not to share.

Earlier in the week, I was sitting on my bed, reading a magazine my parents had sent me. There was an advertisement on one of the pages that had a life-size pear on a plate. (I am not sure what the advertisement was for.) So I looked over to the two year old, pointed at the picture and said: “Look! Do you want to eat this?” The two year old comes running at me full speed and proceeds to chomp down on my ankle.

Clearly, I should have been more specific in my word choice.

The Olympics

Some background for this post. My life shuts down for three sporting events:
- Roland Garros: Let me introduce my pretend sportsman boyfriend: Rafael Nadal
- Wimbledon: Um…Duh.
- The Winter Olympics: I have a thing for men in tights, so the world sportsmanship gig only gets my attention in the winter.

I am not one of those casual Olympics observers.

I am the person, who sits in front of the TV for six hours at a time watching every single competitor in every single discipline. (God Bless Eurosport). I watch the bi-athalon and cross-country team sprint. I know the difference between luge and skeleton. I am the person, who knows the names of the competitors before they take their starting position on the ice or at the gate. I went to the Turin Olympics in 2006.

The Olympics is an international event, so I just assumed that I would be able to watch parts of it from Azerbaijan. Fortunately, I was able to see Wayne-The-Hockey Dude light the torch, so I was able to overlook the fact that I’d missed The Parade of Nations (My favorite part of The Games). However, the Azerbaijani presence at Vancouver 2010 was not large enough to warrant consistent coverage. It took me a few days to stop feeling like I was missing a limb.

By the middle of Week 1 it was still only Dad’s texts that kept me informed of Olympic events. On the Thursday, I happened to catch my first glimpse of the action: Curling. Which is just plain cruel. Yes, I cheer on the curling athletes as much as the next obsessed Olympic spectator, but it is usually because I am waiting for something else to come on. Like Bobsled or Half-Pipe.

Week 2 has been better. There is a little bit more coverage on TV. I was mocked for watching Ice Dance with rapt attention - in a previous life I would have mocked myself too (figure skating is more of a sport) – but it was the first event I was able to watch from start to finish. Another afternoon, I saw some Scandinavians go airborne in the ski jump and about 10 minutes of a women’s hockey game. Late the other night, I saw Lindsey Vonn crash out of the Super G.

And that has been the extent of my Vancouver 2010 experience. Decidedly less intense than the once in a lifetime experience that was Turin 2006. (Although, I can now say I have met the parents of an Olympic Gold Medallist. Congrats Evan!) Perhaps I will move to Russia in time for 2014.

In other sporting event news:
I may have to temporarily move to Baku for the Wimbledon Final. I don’t think I can live without that.
Judging from the UEFA enthusiasm of my students, I don’t think I will have to worry about missing the World Cup. (Number 4 on My Must Watch List).

A Note About Mail

The address on the right-hand side of the screen is the ONLY VALID address to send me mail. When I went into the lounge this month, I had mail that was sent AFTER I moved to site. Not cool. Moreover, that mailbox is NOW CLOSED. So anything sent to that address will just disappear.

USPS USERS: It has come to my attention that METERED POSTAGE takes LESS TIME to get to Azerbaijan. So if your letter contains something that you just can’t wait to share with me, take it up to the counter and ask for 1st Class International. But it does cost a little bit more.

It still takes a while for mail to get out of Azerbaijan. No matter how fast it gets here. So don’t think I’ve forgotten about you. A letter is on its way. However, if it’s been more than a month, feel free to send me an email demanding answers.

This has been a public service announcement. Thank you for your attention. I appreciate your postcards, letters and packages.


BTW, Can someone (in Europe and the US) who has received a letter from me put an estimate of travel time in the comments? As I have no idea how long it actually takes for things to get to the other side.

Three Things I Wish I'd Known At The Start of Winter

In Azerbaijan: January is not the worst winter month. February is.
I found my mitten-glove combo gloves mid-February. Why didn’t I find them in December?
I realized my hiking socks fit inside my black boots this week. Why didn’t I try this months ago?

Oh Well. I know for next year…