Thanksgiving II: 100+ PCVs in the Ambassador's Residence (November)

One of things that Peace Corps volunteers in Azerbaijan look forward to during their service is Thanksgiving dinner at the Ambassador’s Residence in Baku. (Even though there isn’t an official US ambassador to Azerbaijan at present.) It is a privilege limited to official volunteers, therefore not something I got to experience during my first November in country when I was a trainee. Turkeys and soft drinks are provided by PeaceCorps, table linens and plates are provided the embassy, and sides and pies made by PCVs. In theory it sounds like a very low-key event – until you consider that there are 100 + PCVs in which case it becomes less of a low-key evening and more of a happy chaotic gathering. This all occurred on the Saturday nearest Thanksgiving. (It felt wonderfully appropriate to me).

The food was great. Even if the concept of queue-ing in one direction was a little lost. (I blame the fact that we have to fight the line-lacking mobs at the ATMs on a regular basis). There was a severe lack of mashed potatoes. 100+ people and only one person thought to bring mashed potatoes! But there were about six different green bean casseroles, so I was more than willing to forego the spuds. As a side note: Pomegranate sauce makes an excellent substitute for cranberry sauce – just don’t ask me for the recipe.

I spent most of the evening on a couch in the corner with most of the other village-dwelling and/or usually-stay-at-site PCVs. We were a little bit shell-shocked by the number of people. Most of whom we freely admitted to each other we hadn’t seen since the last official PeaceCorps conference. Also, there was no tea on offer at any point, and so we legitimately spent an hour lamenting the absence of ‘chai’. (Cultural integration, anyone?)

Other highlights of the evening included a talent show that involved a lot of site-mate serenades, an appearance of a crocheted American flag, a selection of little known and interesting facts (I admit this was my favorite part), and a poetry recitation by the Charge d’Affairs. There was also a random visit by a pair of American diplomats, who looked more than a little surprised when they opened to the front door and were greeted by of PCVs mid-party.

Accommodation for the evening was provided by embassy families. The couple that I stayed with had only recently arrived in Azerbaijan, so were full of questions about their new home. They were also anxious to get a copy of my “award-winning” pomegranate bread recipe. (Ever the good houseguest I brought baked goods). And after the PCV party, I went over to their neighbours’ house for pepperoni pizza and beer. Where my hosts were shocked to learn I speak Azerbaijani well enough to understand local television. Which seems normal to me, but hearing their surprise made me realize is an accomplishment. Weird, right?

Oh and lastly, I met the charge d’affairs and comic social awkwardness ensued. Like you would expect anything else? See next post.